Café Review: Krepesz
Posted by Coffeestork on 15 Oct 2010 | Tagged as: Café Review
Café: Krepesz
Location: 253 Augusta Avenue, Toronto, ON
Review
I am typically very skeptical about having espresso in a place that has any other focus other than coffee as I often find that espresso usually lacks the attention it requires. For example, I never order espresso in a restaurant. A friend that I met at the recent espresso tasting, recommended that I check out Krepesz in Kensington Market, as he had tasted some of the best espressos outside of Crema in Toronto.
I took his recommendation seriously, and I am happy that I did because it probably would have taken me a lot longer to find Krepesz by myself. Before I actually paid a visit, I did a little research through the Krepesz website which discusses the seriousness with which they take coffee including 49th Parallel beans, a Synesso machine, and professional training by Geoff Polci. Yes, he is the owner of Crema, one of my favourite places in Toronto.
The Pastries
Now, before going any further, I have to break another one of my rules. When I started this blog, I said that it would be espresso focused, and that I wouldn’t be discussing pastries. Well rules are made to be broken, and I promise you the circumstances are exceptional. I grew up in Romania until about the age of 6. One of the fondest memories that I still having was spending summer vacations with my grandmother in the mountains in Transylvania. When I was well behaved, we would go down to the village and get a freshly baked Kurtos Kalacs, a Transylvanian specialty.
Essentially, this is a really buttery dough that is wrapped around a wooden form and basted with more butter, sugar, and cinnamon for good measure and than roasted over a hot charcoal barbecue. Certainly a deperature from the low-fat, organic, gluten-free, vegan, free-range fare that some cafés seem to promote these days. How was the kurtos kalacs at Krepesz? No they don’t roast over a charcoal barbecue, but use a specially made oven. But nonetheless, My two-year old daughter had to be stopped after devouring three quarters of the large pastry, so that her Dad could have a taste. She was right. It was that good. Krepesz does also specialize in crepes, but reviewing those would be breaking my rules too much.
The Equipment and Preparation
When I walked in, I saw the two-group Synesso with bottomless portafilters paired with the Anfim Super Caimano ready to pull the Epic espresso. I ordered my shot and carefully preparation ensued. After a large dose was put in the basket, a heavy full force tamp was applied. After a long preinfusion, a slow long extraction flowed into a thick-walled 4 ounce cup that was being timed. A deperature from the 2 ounce tulip that I don’t see too often, but that I have seen in shops such as the 49th Cafe in Vancouver. I like being able to swirl to mix the espresso while smelling the aromas very easily, but the crema seems to disapate quickly and the drink cools quite rapidly. I have and use both type of cups at home, but I do tend to go to the small 2 ounce cup more often.
The Shot
I have not had the current iteration of Epic Espresso (composed of an El Salvadorean, Ethiopian Yirgacheffe, and Cost Rican) at home or in other cafes. So a relative comparison is not possible, but I will say that this shot had more layers and complexity than any shot in memory, and I found it very satisfying in keeping in the tradition of great balance and sweetness combined with a long aftertaste of chocolate and stone fruits. The part that surprised me was that I took three sips, and each sip produced different tones including some brighter berries and citrus in the front, followed by some vanilla and flower tones, finishing with a bit of caramel blackcurrant highlights. I found the layers quite surprising and especially challenging upfront with brightness.
Conclusions: Good Spot (Ratings Guide)
This review is slightly biased becuase of the kurtos kalacs which evokes childhood memories, but I can assure you that I have had a very nice shot. The dedication to quality is not only in the equipment and coffee used, but the careful preparation is dilligently followed by the owners who have been trained by one of Toronto’s top. I also believe that the family ownership and involvement will result in this careful training to be maintained which is not as consitent in shops with high barista turnovers.
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2 Comments »
Being somewhat of a Jet-setter (I have frequented LAX three times in one week this past month alone), I’m always thrilled knowing that as I leave Toronto, I will soon be enjoying a specialty espresso experience once I have entered the gates of Terminal 7 at Los Angeles International Airport.
Not saying Toronto doesn’t have great espresso, it has, but up until recently, it seemed to me whenever I asked anyone where to get the best espresso, I’d always be pointed in the direction of Queen Street East, and I’d hear the standard line
“coffee beans roasted by Intelligentsia (Chicago)” as the official reason why “they” were the best.
Anyways, much to my delight (and thankfully, getting lost all on my own, one sunny Saturday afternoon in June, in Kensington Market, which is somewhere in Chinatown), I happened to stumble upon a small café called Krepesz.
The restaurant incorporates modern, but fun furnishings with clean lines, creating an inviting yet relaxing atmosphere. All patrons are immediately reminded that espresso is being served here, as the large bronze Synesso machine is prominently displayed in the sight-line from the front door.
As you enter the establishment, you are greeted by smiling faces (people actually smile in Toronto?), which is a breath of fresh air, and inviting, and professional, and if you have a few minutes to spare, the owners will even talk to you and show a sincere interest that you are there.
I have to say, there are lots of other cafés around this part of Toronto, and I’m beginning to develop a slight cringe every time I see that (increasingly) familiar sign hanging on the wall just above the Coffee Price List — “Hand Crafted Coffee”.
But Krepesz delivers.
They use the premium 49th Parallel beans exclusively, and buy in small batches to ensure optimum flavor and freshness.
Espresso is the only coffee drink I partake, so my tastes are fairly alert to subtleties, and differences. I have found, to my delectation, the owners share a love for great coffee and (somehow) seem to balance the science and artistry in achieving the perfect cup.
Krepesz is, uncompromisingly, my #1 “GO-TO-PLACE” in Toronto for world-class espresso.
Thanks guys!
Mmmmm….I want a Kurtos Kalacs..definitely non-gluten-free, non-egg-free, and non-dairy-free with a non-decaf espresso!
Thanks for the tasty tip, Coffeestork!